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Sunday, 26 August 2007

Underwhelmed by Inverness

Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, stands at the mouth of the Moray Firth, on the banks of the River Ness. The first recorded sighting of the famous monster is attributed to St Columba, although he saw it in the river, not in the Loch further south.

Above is a picture of the castle. The present structure is early 19th century but there has been a castle in this spot since the 11th century. Just beneath the building, the museum and art gallery houses a good interpretative exhibition or the history of the Highlands.

Parts of the City are picturesque. Below is a view along the river Ness:

And here you see the pedestrian suspension bridge. This is fun to cross since the bridge wobbles and shakes not only in the wind but also with the movement of people walking on it.

The area is redolent of the history of the Jacobite rebellions. Outside the castle is a statue of Flora MacDonald who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie to escape "over the sea to Skye":

Sadly, the centre of Inverness is not very appealing. Throughout Britain, city centres have become homogeneised with chain stores filling all the main streets. In Inverness, the paved shopping street and indoor shopping mall (the "Eastgate Centre" - yawn!) have Boots, Waterstones, WH Smiths, Costa Coffee, Topshop etc. etc. etc. It was not much different from walking down the Broadway in Bexleyheath. The level of wide eyed, wobbling and relatively young drunks weaving across the pavement at 7 o'clock in the evening was probably slightly higher

In the main street, there are several Indian and Chinese restaurants. Along the Ness, there are various more trendy establishments leveraging the price of beefsteak by emphasising the number of days it had hung, the provenance of the cattle or the twee garnishments that would allow the restaurant to charge £20 or more for a piece of grilled meat.

To be honest, after walking around for a bit, I fell into a rather bad mood and decided to have a freshly grilled pattie of ground Argentinian beef, garnished with courgettes, tomato and mustard with French Fried potatoes, quick sealed to retain as much Vitamin C as possible. It seemed right to patronise an establishment bearing the name of Clan Donald and I saved myself quite a lot of money.

On the way into town on Sunday night, I took a taxi the seven miles from the airport and did not get much change from £20 (if you are in the US, that is forty dollars!!!) Therefore on the return journey I was determined to get the bus - not because I couldn't afford the taxi fare on the generous offerings of the Blackfen faithful - but because I don't like being ripped off.

After arriving by train at Inverness, I wheeled my suitcase the five minute walk to the Bus Station. That is after all where you might expect to catch a bus from the main city of the Highlands to its main airport. In fact, it is necessary to find a bus stop on the street by the Post Office. While waiting for the bus, I took this photo and mused that it could offer an explanation for the unfortunate failure of the Jacobite clans at the Battle of Culloden:

The history books tell of a failed night attack on the Duke of Cumberland's camp at Nairn, and the poor choice of ground, disadvantaging the Highland warriors by putting them into an open conventional battle against an army with superior artillery and cavalry, instead of choosing ground less suitable for cannon and horse and more fitted to the rush from cover of fearless clansmen with broadsword and dirk.

Looking at the bus, perhaps the truth is that the MacDonalds, Stewarts, Frasers, Camerons and Atholls were busy snapping up the latest 2-for-1 offer on Scotts Porage Oats.

I managed a couple of snaps from the aeroplane as we flew over Scotland. I'd be interested if anyone can identify where this is:

15 comments:

Moretben said...

"There is no joy without Clan Donald."

Anonymous said...

Oh Father, this is so funny, we've just come back from a holiday in Rome where we were ripped off by a taxi driver (handing my befuddled hubbie a 5 euro note saying "look, you gave me the wrong note, I wanted 20 euros," so poor hubbie gives him another 20 euros meaning we'd paid 35 in total for a short trip from the station to our digs - worth 1 euro on the metro, if only we'd known!!). And the mark up on the grotty food we got outside the Vatican, just because we foolishly sat down to eat it. So where did we go for a coffee, when we were near the Trevi fountains? Of course Signor Donaldos, it might have been in a plastic cup, but it tasted good, the doughnuts were gorgeous, and it was Cheap!
Still, there were some good bits to Rome too, it was a shame we had to wade through so much chewing gum and dog poo to get to them!!
Elizabeth

Arcadian Gent said...

Thats part of the Hislop Estate.

The Epiphany Artist said...

I think I am living vicariously through your blog--- I so want to visit Europe!

GOR said...

My best recollection of Inverness was a meal I had there 30 years ago. I had taken my American wife on the ‘grand tour’ - Ireland, England, Scotland, Wales – and we were having a meal in Inverness. Noting that Haggis was on the menu, I ordered it. The waiter (no doubt accustomed to Americans ordering Haggis, going yuck! and not finishing it) advised - with appropriate Scottish thriftiness, I thought - that I might prefer a ‘side order’ of it.

I laughed and told him that as I had lived in Newcastle-on-Tyne for a number of years, I was well acquainted with Haggis and he should bring a full order. He did, and I cleaned my plate – probably much to his relief!

Ann said...

Talking about rip-offs….. I was in Inverness on business some years ago and didn’t have much time. So I took a taxi to Loch Ness just so I could say I’d seen it. We parked briefly by the loch – upon which, right on cue, a “local” came ambling up, camera in hand and started talking loudly to the taxi driver. “I just saw it out of the corner of my eye and managed to get a picture – think I managed to get the tail…” then, just in case I hadn’t heard the first time, he repeated “I think I just managed to get the TAIL on a couple of the PHOTOS….” I wonder how many tourists (delicacy forbids me from speculating on their country of origin) over the years have fallen for that trick and bought the camera/film off him for some colossal price…..!
Probably they included the rather loud ones (delicacy...ditto)I sat with on the train home who'd bought some miniature bagpipes and were worried because they didn't seem to work. They argued and speculated and puffed noisily for a while, then one of them prodded me. "Do YOU know how this works?" "I think", I mused, "the problem is they forgot to put the cat in". The few seconds of abject horror on their faces were worth the train fare...

Jimmy said...

So was anyone at Pluscarden happy with Archbishop Conti's reaction to Summorum Pontificum?

berenike said...

Did no-one tell you it's much more sensible to hitch from Elgin? Or find out about the bus ...

bernadette said...

The gloom that descended upon you in Inverness, I wonder if it is connected to the key role that the Highland city played in the Protestant Reformation. Didn`t John Knox hang about round there, and the Prottie Scots really did despise the English Catholics. Are you surprised that the Eastgate Centre is any different to every other one ever built - spirit of compromise lives on. Also, (warming to the slightly nutty theme now) - I notice that whenever I go across to Ireland by boat, that when I go through those greystone South Wales towns, past those dreary grey Welsh Chapel Presbyterian churches, a kind of gloom descends and I can`t get out of there and onto that boat quick enough... even if I need the loo desperately. It is dark and I`m not imagining it. Once on Emerald soil, the towns might be just as dreary and the churches just as breeze-blockey, but the spirit could not be more different. There is love, joy and peace. It`s true, you know. Spirits do dwell in places and history has a lot to do with it.

ooh, theres a man in a white coat drawing up at my drive.....now what does He want ...

Jamie said...

Fr Tim, your alternative take on the tragedy of Culloden just made me laugh like a loon in a public library. Thanks all the same!

P.S.- I am not a fan of Inverness either.

Richard said...

Rev. Father, next time you are up there do give the modern shopping centre a miss and visit the old Victorian one. There's a butcher there who does the best black pudding outside Lancashire.

As for the Catholic church in Inverness, I was there about three years ago and the music was the usual modern drivel (is it sinful to look up the final hymn in the book and then leave straight after the Priest's Communion?). However a short walk along the river the protestants were doing Venetian Vespers (in Latin).

Andrew said...

I think the picture was taken looking south east from somewhere above Perth, and that the loch in the middle is Leven, and that Edinburgh is just invisible to the right at the bottom of the picture.

AM

Boeciana said...

Ech, am I Inverness's only fan? When I was wee (7) and lived in Wick, my Mum and I made a bus trip to Inverness (3 hours or something like that). I'd never seen a branch of Marks and Spencer's before (to my conscious knowledge, anyhow) and thought it was amazing. There was a musical clock in the shopping centre. And, if I am not very much mistaken, the local museum had some stuffed animals that children were actually allowed to touch. Magic!

Mac McLernon said...

"I think", I mused, "the problem is they forgot to put the cat in"

ROFL... Ann, that is priceless... I'd have given anything to have seen their expressions!

John Kearney said...

Och, Father, as a sassenach did you really expect to be treated well? Especially when so close to Culloden. But one thing Inverness has is a good football team and they had the best shot stopper in the League last season.

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